Breeding Californian worms as a business. Breeding California worms at home Canadian worms for compost

Why do they keep and breed such seemingly unattractive creatures as earthworms?

Mainly for the production of vermicompost. Vermicompost is a valuable organic fertilizer, the main waste product of worms. The worms themselves can also be used as food for various pets (fish, amphibians and reptiles, as well as some species of birds and rodents). But, since my pets (cat and Japanese finch) categorically refused to eat worms, I keep worms exclusively to obtain vermicompost. The bulk of the worm population lives in my summer cottage. There is a special worm hutch equipped there, which is covered with spruce branches and film for the winter. But I also keep some worms in my city apartment.

They live in a terrarium, in the bottom of which a number of holes are made so that excess moisture does not accumulate. Naturally, the terrarium should stand on some kind of pallet. The terrarium is located in a dark corner under the table because the worms do not like light.

Worms feed on almost any organic matter - potato peelings, various kinds of kitchen waste, used tea and coffee infusions, bread crusts, soaked newspapers, etc. You should not overuse citrus fruits (lemon, orange and tangerine peels), they strongly acidify the substrate. It is also better to refrain from using animal waste - meat, egg whites and yolks, etc. - mainly for two reasons, firstly, because of the unpleasant odor that occurs when animal protein decomposes, and, secondly, if you breed worms in the country, meat and other animal waste can attract rats and mice. Worms do not eat animal fats (milk, etc.).

Some people say that you shouldn't feed animal protein to worms because worms are vegetarians. But they are more likely to be scavengers than vegetarians. In my opinion, decomposed vegetable protein is not very different from decomposed animal protein. Although it is possible that worms prefer plant protein, they are also capable of eating animal protein. After all, they feed on the simplest nematodes. There are very few animals in nature that have strict dietary restrictions; There are very few absolute vegetarians or absolute carnivores. Cats and dogs, being carnivores, enjoy eating grass. Cows, along with grass, absorb a sufficient amount of animal protein in the form of insects and other small animals. The absence of strict food restrictions allows animals to adapt to changing environmental conditions. As an example, we can cite pigs, whose ancestors are known to have been predators. But let's get back to the worms.

From time to time the worms need to be given eggshells and fine sand. Sand serves worms in the same way as pebbles serve chickens - to improve digestion. Of course, all food given to worms must be minced or crushed in another way, since worms do not have teeth and cannot chew food. In addition to all this, you should not forget about watering, since if the substrate humidity is less than 35%, your worms will die within a week. Under no circumstances should you use chlorinated water for irrigation. Chlorine is poison for worms. Either rainwater or well-settled water is used.

I add food periodically in small layers. When the terrarium is full, I transplant the worms with part of the old substrate into another terrarium, and start everything over again. And vermicompost from the old terrarium is ready for use. Worms can be transplanted manually, but this is a rather tedious task. It is better to stop feeding the worms for a while and let them get hungry. Then place on top straw cuttings or torn paper soaked in a sugar solution. You can use the pulp of vegetables and fruits. In two or three days, most of the hungry worms will rise up to new food, from where they can be collected. In one day, one worm can process an amount of organic matter equal to its own weight. And the average weight of an earthworm is 0.5 g. I don’t presume to say what the optimal density of worms in a worm house (terrarium) should be. Under natural conditions, the density of worms ranges from 100 to 20,000 individuals per square meter.
I use vermicompost produced by worms for indoor flowers and seedlings. This way I save money and get a product that I have confidence in. Because you can never say exactly where the soil you bought in the store came from. From the items that I found in bags of flower and garden soil, one could make a fairly extensive exhibition - stones, sticks, bones, and even an entire anthill with live ants and ant eggs. If you use vermicompost for indoor flowers, individual worms or their cocoons may accidentally get into the flower pot. Some gardeners, for some reason, are afraid of this. However, worms cannot cause any harm to flowers. They do not gnaw roots, because, as I already said, they do not have teeth. They can only eat a rotten root, but with rotten roots the plant will die even without worms. But if you are uncomfortable with the idea that there are worms living in your flower pot, then it is easier to simply pick them out by hand than to try to poison them with something or, as some people advise, to put the pot in water and wait for the worms to choke. This can only destroy the plant. Worms can live in water for quite a long time (up to a week).

Some unpleasant moments that can arise when breeding worms.

This is, firstly, the smell from the waste that you feed the worms, and, secondly, the appearance of all kinds of foreign insects. Ready-made vermicompost does not have an unpleasant odor; it smells like ordinary earth. In addition, the worms secrete certain substances that serve as a kind of deodorant. However, newly placed food that the worms have not yet begun to eat may emit an odor. Much here depends on the type of food; soaked newspapers or tea leaves do not emit a special smell, but coffee leaves even have a quite pleasant smell. But if the food contains animal protein, the smell can be quite disgusting. In this case, the new food should be sprinkled with ready-made vermicompost. Some, however, use EM preparations, like Baikal or Vozrozhdenie, to combat unpleasant odors. Personally, in the fall I bring a certain amount of soil from the dacha and periodically sprinkle the substrate with it. I think that this is also good for seedlings, since vermicompost is similar in its properties to the soil in which the seedlings will grow in the summer.
As for insects, most often the substrate contains fruit flies, and sometimes fools. By themselves, these creatures are completely harmless. They cannot harm worms. Quite the opposite. It is known that worms feed on protozoa nematodes, bacteria, fungal spores and other microflora and microfauna. True, I don’t know whether the worms eat the eggs and larvae of fruit flies or worms. Be that as it may, it’s unlikely that anyone will like the presence of various midges in the apartment. Since the appearance of these insects is primarily associated with the increased humidity of the substrate with which you feed the worms, you can fight them by reducing watering (but without stopping completely, so as not to kill the worms). As someone suggested to me on one forum, you can use sticky fly tape to kill fruit flies if you stick it in strips on the lid of the terrarium. Podur can be caught using a piece of raw potato. They love it very much and gather on it in large numbers. You should not use pesticides; you can poison worms.

Where to get worms?
1. buy red Californian worms.
2. buy specially bred Russian (for example, Vladimir)
3. dig up in the garden, in the forest, collect on the street after rain.

Before discussing these three options, I will make one important aside. Whatever option you choose, you still won’t be able to find exactly the same food for the worms that they are used to. And the main advantage of keeping worms is that you can get valuable fertilizer from your free waste. There are different opinions about how easily worms switch to new food. Professor Igonin used to be of the opinion that worms have a rather difficult time getting used to new food. Some of his colleagues believe that this is not such a significant issue. And Anatoly Mikhailovich himself (after he started selling “Vladimir Prospectors” :) now speaks less categorically. Judging by my experience, I can say that it is not worth suddenly switching worms to a new food. You can lose, if not the entire population, then most of it. It is good if by this time the worms have already laid cocoons. Young, newly born worms become accustomed to the food they tried at birth. If it is still necessary to transfer the worms to a new food, then this should be done gradually, gradually mixing it into the old one.
From this point of view, consider all three of the above options. Since the ability to adapt to new conditions depends to a large extent on the worms themselves. If you decide to buy “Californians,” then make sure that they are selling you really Californian worms, and not ordinary ones dug up right here under the fence. Sometimes nematodes are sold under the guise of juvenile worms. The seller must have a permit to sell worms issued by the quarantine service. Red Californian worms are highly productive, but are quite picky about the substrate and living conditions. They are only suitable for home keeping, that is, they live only in warm conditions. If you want to place them in your dacha, then most likely they will freeze in the first winter. As for Vladimir worms, they are undoubtedly more adapted to our conditions. This is a good option if you don't mind spending money on worms. If you are going to keep worms not only at home, but also in the country house, or only in the country house, then, in my opinion, it is better for you to dig them up in a nearby forest or field. And move them to your worm shed. These will be the worms most adapted to your conditions. Just remember to dig them up along with the soil, and gradually add your new food to this soil. The most adaptable of those I have seen, in my opinion, are the Moscow worms, which I picked up on the street after the rain. Apparently they are so accustomed to living in difficult urban conditions and eating all sorts of rubbish that they are not so easily killed.
Well, perhaps, in short, that’s all. Read more about worms in the book by A.M. Igonin "How to increase soil fertility tens of times with the help of earthworms."

More about vermicompost

Composition of vermicompost and its properties
The main product of compost processing using technological worms is the humic organic fertilizer vermicompost - worm compost.

Vermicompost with 50% humidity contains 12-15% humus.
The agrochemical value of dry vermicompost is as follows:
. humus - 25-35%;
. nitrogen - 0.8-2%;
. phosphorus - 0.8-2%;
. potassium - 0.7-1.2%;
. magnesium - 0.3-0.5%;
. calcium - 2-3%;
. acidity pH = 6.9-7.2;
. microflora - 2*10**12 cells/g;
. fulvic, humic acids;
and all this in a balanced way.

Vermicompost is also a microbiological fertilizer. Adding it improves the soil health. Biocompost exceeds manure and composts in humus content by 4-8 times. Vermicompost contains a large number of enzymes, vitamins, soil antibiotics, plant growth hormones and other biologically active substances. The duration of action of vermicompost is 5 years.

Unlike manure, vermicompost is not inert - plants react immediately to it. When using vermicompost, the growing season of plants is reduced by 1.5-2 weeks. It has been proven that the humates contained in vermicompost are non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, non-mutagenic, and non-toxic to embryos. Vermicompost does not contain weed seeds. Vermicompost has no odor and is pleasant to hold in your hands.
During storage, vermicompost may even dry out, but will not lose its qualities.

Using vermicompost
Vermicompost can be applied in the spring when digging, it can be poured into holes for seedlings, into rows for sowing seeds.

Vermicompost is added to planting mixtures for growing seedlings and indoor plants.

It is impossible to “over-salt” the soil with vermicompost; the more you add, the better.

Vermicompost can be infused in water and watered with the infusion on plants.

The use of mineral fertilizers mixed with vermicompost is extremely effective.

Norms for applying vermicompost
Since vermicompost has to be saved, its application rates are as follows:
. when planting seedlings in the ground, add 1-2 handfuls of vermicompost to the hole;
. when planting tomato seedlings, add 0.5-1 liters of vermicompost to the hole;
. for potatoes, 0.5-1 liters of vermicompost with each potato;
. mulch the soil under the cucumbers with vermicompost in a layer of 1-2 cm;
. mulch the soil under the strawberries with vermicompost with a layer of 1-2 cm;
. Do not dig up the soil under fruit trees, but mulch annually with a 2-3 cm layer of vermicompost;
The Master Ground company, which supplies vermicompost fertilizer, recommends the following application rates:
. flowers - 0.5-1.5 kg/sq.m;
. vegetables - up to 2 kg/sq.m or 150 g/linear m;
. berry - 0.5-1.0 kg per bush;
. fruit - 1-2 kg for each tree;

Water infusion of vermicompost
An aqueous infusion of vermicompost is used for soaking seeds, watering seedlings, indoor plants, and garden crops.
Stir 1 cup of dry humus fertilizer in 1 bucket of water and let it sit for 24 hours. The water takes on the color of tea. The sediment can be used to feed indoor flowers.
The resulting infusion is used to soak the seeds of cabbage, cucumbers, and tomatoes for 12 hours.

To water the plants, the infusion is diluted with two more parts of water.

Spraying plants with infusion is effective. Spray fruit trees and shrubs after flowering, when the ovary falls, during the period of fruit growth and the formation of flower buds (early August). When spraying fruit trees and bushes with vermicompost infusion in combination with mulching the soil under the crowns with vermicompost, a layer of 1-2 cm, their fruiting becomes regular.

Spraying flower crops three times with an interval of one week accelerates flowering by 1-1.5 weeks.

Soil composition
The basis of the soil - soil minerals make up 80-90% of the weight. They, as a rule, contain almost the entire periodic table, but in a form inaccessible to plants. The smallest particles or flakes of minerals form clay soils, larger ones form loams, and even larger ones form sandy loams and sands. The smallest particles that form clay minerals are in the form of flakes, so their total surface area is huge and they are able to retain ions of elements on their surface in a form accessible for plant nutrition. Some soil microorganisms, with sufficient moisture and heat, are able to dissolve the mineral particles themselves, making them available to plants chemical elements, connected in them.
Clay is potentially fertile soil. Tatyana Ugarova calls it “virtually inexhaustible clay minerals.”
Another component of the soil is organic matter, and its most valuable part is humus - the smallest colloidal particles of organic matter, which have an even larger surface and even better retain ions of elements in a form available for plant nutrition. Humus is a repository of basic nutrients. Small clay and humus particles form compounds of the clay-humus complex, which retains nutrients. This is why it is so important to add some loam to your compost pile.
The third component of the soil is its living component - a community of various soil microorganisms - bacteria, fungi, ciliates, amoebas, algae, microscopic worms, etc. Their biomass in the upper 25 cm layer of soil can reach 1.0-1.5 kg/sq.m. soil and more. Soil microorganisms play a major role in the formation of soil fertility. The majority of microorganisms are bacteria.

Features of light soil
Light sandy soils are easily washed out; soluble nutrients, along with water, go to great depths and are lost for plants. Therefore, such soils usually lack potassium, magnesium, and microelements. But fertilizers should be applied to sandy soils not in the fall, but in the spring (the main filling) and in the summer (in the form of fertilizing), but in half the dose than on clay soils. Such soils dry out quickly, but are well aerated. Organic fertilizers on sandy soils quickly overheat (mineralize), so they need to be applied more and more often.
Sandy soils are less suitable for gardening than loamy soils. To improve the cohesion of sandy soils, in addition to manure, peat and compost are added. If possible, claying is carried out - surface application of clay or loam. When planting gardens in planting pits for fruit trees, it is very effective to make 2-3 screens of composted clay with manure with a layer of 2-4 cm every 20 cm.

Heavy soil and stagnant water
If heavy clay soils have little organic matter, they drain water very poorly. Excess carbon dioxide can accumulate in them, and although carbon dioxide dissolves some minerals, excess is harmful to plants.
If there are poorly permeable layers of soil at depth, then even small depressions on the soil surface can cause stagnation of water in the soil. The same thing happens when there is a close groundwater level. Stagnant water displaces the air in the soil, resulting in acidification (gleyization) of the soil, which is expressed in the appearance of blue spots with an increased content of substances harmful to plants. Beneficial soil microorganisms are inhibited, and harmful anerobic microflora develops. But if the garden is located on a slope and the water moves slowly through the layers of soil, then there are no negative consequences.

Mandatory digging before winter, loosening and systematic application of organic matter - manure, peat, compost, and for acidic soils, the addition of lime improves the permeability and structure of clay soils.

Soil structure
Soil rich in microorganisms is glued together by mineral and organic colloidal particles into small lumps that do not fit tightly together, which allows air to penetrate deep into the soil and water not to linger on the surface and wet the soil. The humus-rich clay crumbles into small lumps. The passages of microscopic and earthworms, cavities of dead plant roots also improve aeration and permeability of the soil.

Adding lime to heavy clay acidic soil also improves its permeability and structure.

Soil microorganisms
Some soil microorganisms decompose organic matter introduced into the soil, promote the formation of humus, and make nutrients available to plants, others bind atmospheric nitrogen, synthesize organic compounds, and the next convert these compounds into forms accessible to plants. Soil microorganisms convert phosphorus into a soluble state, even decompose minerals, and first of all, practically inexhaustible clay minerals, delivering the entire “periodic table” to plants. Some plants are unable to develop normally without certain microflora. As a result of the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms, the soil becomes structured and crumbly.

The lifespan of bacteria and other soil microorganisms can be very short - from days to several hours. If there is food, warmth and humidity, they multiply very quickly, and die off very quickly if the “food” runs out. But their biomass and waste products constitute the very “nutrient broth” for plants, which includes not only simple compounds for plant nutrition, but also amino acids, vitamins, auxins, antibiotics and many other nutrients and plant growth stimulants.

Most beneficial soil microorganisms are most favored by a slightly acidic and neutral soil reaction of pH 6.5-7.0 in the presence of moisture, air and heat in the range of approximately 15-30°C. Organic matter is needed to feed soil microorganisms. There are two ways for organic matter to enter the soil - root excretions of plants with post-harvest residues and the introduction of organic matter into the soil from the outside, in the form of compost, manure, green manure, etc.

Root secretions
Plants do not remain in debt to microorganisms - living plants feed soil microorganisms with their root secretions, and not just with dying post-harvest residues, although roots also make up about a third of the plant's mass. Tatyana Ugarova gives a figure - up to 20% of the total mass of plants is root secretions. The composition of root secretions includes organic acids, sugars, amino acids and much more. According to T. Ugarova, a strong plant abundantly feeds soil microorganisms, and a massive proliferation of rhizosphere (root) beneficial microflora occurs. Moreover, plants stimulate the development of predominantly microflora that nourishes plants, produces plant growth stimulants, and suppresses microflora harmful to plants.
Composting is an art
- this is how the exceptional importance of compost for the garden is now assessed. Unfortunately, we still pay very little attention to the proper preparation of compost (if they prepare it at all). And properly prepared compost is the basis, the key to the future harvest.
When making compost, it is important to add some loam (clay garden soil). Loam also serves as a source of soil microorganisms - a “starter” and binds nutrients formed during compost maturation as part of clay-humus complexes. In particular, clay-humus complexes arise when soil particles are mixed in the intestines of an earthworm, which is why the effectiveness of worm compost - vermicompost, which is also enriched with beneficial microflora from the worm's stomach - is so great.
Briefly, the sequence of layers of the compost heap: 15-20 cm of grass and similar waste, sprinkle with ash, dolomite or lime 300-600 g/sq.m. meter, and sprinkle everything with clay garden soil - approximately a 2cm layer. And so on several times. The compost should be watered through a sprayer (or from a watering can) to keep the pile constantly moist.
Adding compost to the surface of the beds enriches the soil with microorganisms, revitalizes it, and does not at all come down to a simple conversion to nutrients N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). Be sure to prepare compost for your garden!

It is curious that in the Mitlider method using boxes without a bottom filled with a mixture of sawdust and sand, by the end of the first season the sawdust turns into crumbly, humus-rich loose soil, saturated with soil microorganisms, which in its effect on the underlying soil and plants is very similar to a layer of compost in the garden! (But remember - you cannot dig up fresh sawdust with soil!)
Beds after harvest
Loose, humus-rich soil should not be left bare, not covered with plants or a layer of organic mulch, which provide food for soil bacteria and create conditions for their life, protecting the soil from drying out and weathering. Therefore, if you have bare beds left after harvesting, sow any crop as a ground cover, like green manure. In the spring, mow the plants - place the tops in compost, and the roots remaining in the beds, which have absorbed nutrients, will give them back to the soil, preserving its fertility.

conclusions
. All beds, including Mitlider's narrow soil beds, require the introduction of humus - well-rotted manure or compost, vermicompost, which enrich the soil with beneficial soil microflora and humus, which increases the soil's ability to retain nutrients.
. Thus, a combination of organic and complex mineral fertilizers can increase soil fertility faster than using each type of fertilizer separately.
. Vegetables are most beneficial when grown without nutritional deficiencies. But over time, a nutritional deficiency of some macro and micro elements may arise, even if at first there was plenty of everything. Each area may have its own shortage of macro and micro elements. Therefore, fertilizing with corrective fertilizers is necessary.
. Most beneficial soil microorganisms are most favored by a slightly acidic and neutral soil reaction of pH 6.5-7.0, in the presence of moisture, air and heat in the range of approximately 12-30°C.
. Very light, sandy soil requires the addition of peat and clay - claying, peaty soil - sand and loam. Excess water should be removed by carrying out drainage work.
. The ground should not be left bare - the soil should be covered with either plants (or lawn) or a layer of organic mulch. The addition of compost and manure humus to the beds plays an extremely important role in enriching the soil with microorganisms.

» Worms

Breeding Californian red worms is a task that even a schoolchild can do. After all, there are no difficulties in creating optimal conditions for this. Moreover, there is practically no need for even financial investments. Running such a business is a very profitable business. And the profitability is clearly proven. The main thing is to find a reliable sales market.

California worms have an excellent ability to quickly and efficiently process organic waste, creating excellent vermicompost. This is a unique fertilizer, which in its composition surpasses even humus. Experts say that vermicompost is almost eight times better than the humus we are used to.

Moreover, vermicompost has no odor, so it is recommended to use it not only in the garden, but also for feeding indoor plants. Most often, such complex fertilizer is applied to the soil in the spring. It can even be added to containers with seedlings. The main thing is to stick to proportions. Everything is fine, back to normal.

Best places for breeding

To begin with, it is important to choose the place where the worms will breed. This could be a cottage, garage, basement or other household space similar to those listed above. You can use any kind of box or container. Although you can dig a hole in the ground. But it is imperative to line the cavity with natural material to prevent the individuals from spreading.

How to breed red worms

There are no significant differences between puffballs and California worms. In addition, the latter are more effective in processing organic matter. As for their living conditions, red individuals prefer a warmer environment and simply cannot tolerate frost.

Unlike rain species, Californian species do not crawl to the surface during rain. They are more comfortable staying in the ground (substrate).

Manufacturing and arrangement of a worm house

The optimal place for breeding is considered to be a compost pit (or heap), boxes or lodges. Food comes from organic waste. This can be manure, bird droppings, straw, wood chips, vegetable peels and other organic waste. Everything is collected in a heap and thoroughly moistened. After a few months, the organic matter decomposes and good conditions for breeding are created.

The lower part of the container or container you come up with must be able to allow moisture to pass through. Because excess moisture can harm the inhabitants of the soil mixture. This will become an ideal vermicompost. With the water passing through the upper tray with worms, biomaterial will also come out, improving the substrate.

Soil preparation

You can use humus, rotten leaves and even cooking waste as a mixture, in other words, almost any organic waste. This will create comfort, softness and nutrition in the resulting habitat. To enrich the mixture with oxygen for normal decomposition of organic matter, it is important to dig up or gently mix the compost at least once a week.

The substrate must meet the required parameters of acidity, humidity and temperature. This will be discussed in detail below.

Check-in

Initially, Californian worms should be introduced into a smaller container with a ready-made substrate. It will act as some kind of pallet. Experts advise covering the top of the pallet with a high-density fabric. This will keep the heat inside the imaginary container.

Before populating the main family, it is recommended to place a test batch. If after a couple of days everyone is still alive, you can continue the resettlement.

When at least 10% of the individuals have died, it is worth reviewing the soil mixture. Perhaps it is too sour. To correct the situation, you need to add straw, plant tops or sawdust to the substrate.

Nutrition

It is recommended to feed the worms only after eating the previous portion. Otherwise, you yourself will provoke obesity in your wards. They can be fed manure, bird droppings, plant tops, paper, cardboard, vegetable peels, straw, hay, sawdust and other organic waste. If you live in your own home, then there will never be problems with food.

The nutrition of worms should not be neglected. But feed only after destroying the previous portion

Spoiled baked goods, used tea leaves and grounds from natural coffee are considered a special treat for these animals. You should not throw citrus waste into the compost. This may increase the acidity of the mixture. From time to time it is important to supplement the composition with ground remains of eggshells. This procedure will allow you to painlessly maintain the acid-base balance of the environment.

Care

Optimal conditions of detention:

• acidity - 6.5 - 7.5 pH;
• temperature - 20-25 degrees Celsius above zero;
• humidity - 70-80%.

California worms are heat-loving spineless animals. For their normal development and reproduction, the temperature must be maintained within 25 degrees Celsius above zero. If the mark on the thermometer scale decreases, they will eat worse and reproduce less. When the temperature reaches 5 degrees, the creeping creatures may die altogether.

It is important to pay attention to the water used to water the substrate. It should not be chlorinated, otherwise the living creatures will die.

It is worth turning the compost at some intervals. This will ensure oxygen access to the substrate.

Wintering

Since these invertebrate animals are very afraid of the cold, preparation for winter must be thorough.. It is important to provide the necessary temperature regime for them and to prevent overcooling of the soil mixture.

To do this, fresh compost 20-40 cm thick is laid on the surface of the container. Then everything is watered generously and covered with hay or straw in a thick ball of 0.5 m. The topmost layer may freeze a little in severe frosts. But it's not scary. For a common substrate where the worms will be located, there will be no problems. With the arrival of spring, the inhabitants of the soil mixture will already feed on the top of the humus. Whereas the lower 2/3 of the total volume of compost will already turn into high-quality vermicompost.

Sales Features

Since the cost of one worm is low, to get a good profit you need to reach wholesale volumes. This product may be of interest to pet stores, agricultural farms, fishing farms and even fishing stores. Active advertising is needed here.

First, you should sell your product to friends and neighbors, for example, who are going fishing. Well, then look for a bigger customer.

Profitability

Breeding Californian worms is extremely profitable. Since production itself is practically inexpensive. All proceeds are net.

Practice shows that 1 sq. m of nursery will allow you to get about 1-10 thousand individuals and half a ton of vermicompost for sale. Considering that 1 unit costs around two rubles, you get 20 thousand rubles in your hands. The main thing is to find a profitable and permanent place marketing of their products.

Mistakes in breeding

• It is strictly prohibited to use chlorinated water to create compost. Because bleach is considered a killer trace element for worms. If there is no other water, it should be left to settle for several days. After this, the chlorine will go away. By the way, rainwater is also suitable. Cheap and cheerful;
• Fresh manure should not be added to the compost. During its humus, the temperature can rise to almost 600 degrees Celsius, and the inhabitants of the compost will simply die;
• old manure is also not suitable. If it has been lying there for more than three years, the amount of nutritional components will be insufficient for the normal growth and reproduction of invertebrate animals.

In general, it is worth noting that raising California red worms is not difficult. Our country has created all the conditions and opportunities to engage in this extensively as a business and earn good money. The main thing is to think over the sales market and establish your small production. And we have already discussed in detail how to do this.

Introduction
Even the farmers of Ancient Egypt saw earthworms as a guarantee of future harvests. Aristotle called them the intestines of the earth. And this is true: by passing earth and plant debris through their intestines, worms enrich the soil.
Vermicompost obtained from worm secretions has the following qualities:
An excellent fertilizer, in 1 gram there are 1.7 x 1017 all sorts of microorganisms, mainly actinomycetes and nitrogen fixers.
No pathogenic microorganisms
They have a stimulating effect on the plant due to the presence of biostimulants.
The concentration of calcium and magnesium increases by 2 times, phosphorus by 7 times, potassium by 10 times, the content of humic acids increases several times.
Only in the 50s of our century the question arose about breeding worms specifically as producers of a very valuable, environmentally friendly fertilizer. The concept of “Vermiculture” arose - the culture of breeding worms. The red Californian worm was bred, which is used to create vermiculture.

What is the California Worm?
California red worm - new breed earthworm Eisenia foetida.. Was obtained at the University of California, as a result of hybridization of various breeds of earthworm, in 1959.

Features of the California worm:
1. Habitat - a special substrate rich in organic compounds (manure, composts, organic waste and garbage) but not soil.
2. Long-lived - lives 16 years, laying 20 cocoons per season.
3. He eats twice as much per day as he weighs.
4. Doesn't crawl out of the boxes in which he is bred.
5. The temperature range at which the worm normally exists is from plus 4 to plus 40 degrees.
Biohumus can be grown both on an industrial scale and in an apartment, on a balcony and in a summer cottage.

Breeding Californian red worm
The “Californian” is a wonderful “pet.” It can be placed in a box made of wood or plywood, even in a cardboard box, but lined with polyethylene on the inside, in an old glass aquarium, in a plastic box. Joint stock company closed type Fart recommends three plastic containers: the first with a solid bottom, the second and third with perforated bottoms. All containers are inserted into one another. Below - with a solid bottom.
The procedure for working with these containers is as follows:
Pour clean, dry sand into a container with a solid bottom. We place a holey container on it. In this container we put a layer of “living” soil (sold in stores, produced by the company “Fart”) or a layer of fertile garden soil - a 1 cm layer, put a food substrate on top with a layer of 3 - 5 cm, then dust the food layer with “new soil” (a product of the company “Fart”) or eggshell powder, on top a layer of “living earth” or soil - 1 cm. Worms are placed on the surface of the soil. The prepared substrate is moistened. A lump of substrate, if squeezed in your hand, does not crumble when you unclench your fist. Cover the top of the containers with a piece of polyethylene.
When the substrate is processed in a holey container, place a 3rd container on it, charged in the same way as the 2nd.
After 1.5 - 2 months, all the worms from the container will crawl into the 3rd container and begin to work in it. Biohumus has formed in the 2nd container, which can be used. Thus, by changing containers, we obtain fertile vermicompost.
The sand in the lower container becomes very wet after a while, and moisture accumulates in it as a result of the work of the worms. Sand with moisture is also a useful soil additive. Wet sand should be replaced with dry sand.
If it is not possible to purchase the containers described, you can get by with the above-mentioned containers. Sand must be placed at the bottom - it serves as drainage. Then a layer of soil 1 - 2 cm, a layer of food waste 3 - 5 cm, again a layer of soil 1 - 2 cm. A little ground eggshell is added to the food waste - “Californians” do not like an acidic environment. It is more difficult to separate vermicompost from such containers than from containers. You can keep the worms on a starvation diet for a while, and then put food in a certain place, all the worms will crawl to this place. It is convenient to use such containers for preserving the California worm in the winter, so that in the summer you can move it to the garden or vegetable garden.

What do you feed the California worm at home? Peels from raw vegetables, especially potatoes, must be thoroughly crushed (turned through a meat grinder), otherwise they will not be processed.
Perfectly processed:
banana skins;
citrus peel;
apple cores;
drunken tea and coffee grounds;
moldy bread, bread crusts and rolls;
leftover cereals, pieces of cheese;
rotten tomatoes, apples and other plant waste.
You can feed the worms grass and leaves. It is not recommended to feed worms with meat waste.

How to feed regularly?
When you have containers, feeding intervals are 1.5 - 2 months, i.e. We feed when we charge the container. In single containers we give a little at a time every 2-3 days, trying to feed in such a way that the unprocessed substrate does not accumulate.

California worms work “in the wild”
In the month of May, the “Californian” can be moved outside to a compost heap made from household garbage, rotted manure, and weeds. Recommended for a standard “bed”, on a bed measuring 2 x 1 m from 30 to 100 thousand worms. The worms are placed on a heap prepared in advance, made up of well-composted manure mixed with sawdust, straw, and weeds can be used to feed.
Feed is added every 10 days. Depending on the weather, water the compost 2-3 times a week. By the end of the season we get wonderful vermicompost. California worms must overwinter in a warm place. They are placed in warm sheds, special boxes, or they spend the winter at home, in a city apartment.

conclusions
California red worms are not demanding to keep. If certain conditions are met, they reproduce well and produce fertile vermicompost.

Something to remember
1) Worms should be kept in warm rooms in winter, although they can live at temperatures from plus 4 to plus 40 degrees, they work actively at air temperatures of plus 15 - 25 degrees.
2) The mixtures in which the worms live must be moist. To retain moisture, cover the containers with a piece of polyethylene.
3) Feed only plant residues. Eliminate meat waste from the diet. Potato peelings must be chopped.
4) Crushed egg powder should be added to food; worms do not like acidic subtracts.
St. Petersburg Farmer Assistance Service
List of used literature
1) L. Genkin “Bioconversion is underway” w. Chemistry and life, number 4, 1991
2) M. Nadv “Worms are trump cards” w. Chemistry and life, number 12, 1990
3) “Let the worm work” Closed joint stock company “Fart” St. Petersburg 1995.

Breeding worms as a business is an excellent option for generating income without serious financial costs. Starting capital is minimal, equipment is simple. The technology for growing worms at home does not require special knowledge and skills.

For those who have decided to start a business, selling worms is an excellent option for making a profit with a small starting capital. High profitability and stable demand will ensure the prosperity of your worm farm. Learn the features of this process, invest some money and get stable income.

Is there a demand for who the worm buyers are?

Before opening a vermifarm (as a place for breeding worms is called), research who will need your products. "Creeping Workers" provide several valuable products that can be sold:

• actual live worms;
• vermicompost (fertilizer);
• worm tea (vermichay).

To fertilize the soil

A valuable organic fertilizer - vermicompost - is in demand by both summer residents and large farms. Vermicompost increases soil fertility and enriches it with useful substances.

Start with small volumes. Use the humus yourself and sell it to your neighbors in the country. Expanding production will allow us to reach more established customers.

For fishing

It’s rare these days to meet a fisherman who spends time searching for worms for an upcoming fishing trip by digging up the soil. Most people prefer to come and buy bait in fishing stores. The life expectancy of worms is long, and the demand is stable. One individual can be sold for 2 rubles. How many worms do you need for fishing? Minimum 30 pieces. You will sell several packages in a day. The conclusion is obvious.

To the pet store

Birds, fish and other inhabitants of the pet store constantly need live food. The worms will be taken from you with great pleasure.

For fish farms

Owners of fish farms need a large amount of live food. The high nutritional value of worms explains the need for worm farm products.

For feeding plants

Worm tea– a unique product that allows you to increase the yield of fruit and vegetable crops by more than 2 times. Those who will also become your clients. The waste product of the worms is collected in a container. Natural fertilizer can be used for indoor plants and for open and closed ground (in greenhouses).

The production of vermicompost and its demand is described in this video:

Technology Basics

The scheme is as follows:

• Preparing the habitat of your “pets”.
• Purchase of broodstock, consisting of adults, fry and cocoons of worms.
• Moving the family into the prepared “house”.
• Processing of compost by worms and turning the latter into vermicompost after a certain period of time.
• Reproduction of worms.
• Collection of fertile layer, worm tea, live specimens for sale.
• Adding a new layer of nutrient bedding to serve as food for the worms.
• The process begins again.

Nuances and secrets in the process of breeding worms

Take into account the life functions of worms. Your task is to create comfortable conditions for their life and reproduction. A quiet, calm place without vibrations and noise will help achieve good results.

The soil

It is not enough to simply pour soil into a box, populate the worms and wait for them to multiply quickly. The soil in which they live can be divided into three zones:

• Upper layer- food place. You will need soil enriched with nutrients and organic residues;
• Middle layer– the space where the bulk of individuals live;
• bottom layer- the most valuable. Products of soil processing and derivatives of vital activity accumulate here: vermicompost and worm tea.

Temperature

Observe the temperature in the room. The optimal air temperature is from +15C...+25C. There is a type of worm that reproduces well at temperatures of +8C...+30C.

Room area

Please note: worms reproduce quickly. Consider whether you can increase the area of ​​your vermifarm. Prepare a sufficient number of new “homes” for transplanting individuals.

Sale

Year-round farming of worms will require good distribution channels. Study the market and potential buyers in your area, city, village. Focus on the indicators: a stable family, having overwintered in good conditions, will increase almost 10 times!

Basic conditions for engaging in worm breeding - what is needed for this business

Study each item carefully. Creating a home vermifarm is quite simple. Advice from specialists and experienced farmers will help you.

Even some retirees are planning to open a business breeding Californian worms; the main thing is to study the technology and apply it in practice, as described in this video:

What room can be used, requirements for it

Any heated room with normal humidity is suitable:

• garage;
• cellar;
• attic;
• utility extension.

The air temperature should not fall below +4C. The worms will go into hibernation. At temperatures above +36C, individuals will die.

What types of worms are best to use and why?

Various types of worms are suitable for a home worm farm. Pay attention to popular varieties.

Common earthworm

Local worms, well adapted to their habitat, are used because of their rapid adaptation to the conditions of a closed farm in their native soil. Reproduction will begin faster. Disadvantage – vital activity is lower than that of stronger “thoroughbred” species.

California red worm (CRW)

Popular view. When purchasing, make sure that the individuals are mobile and red in color. The breeding stock should be 1500 individuals or more. For 1 cubic meter of soil you will need from 1 to 3 families.

It multiplies quickly and produces high-quality vermicompost. Not picky about food. Does not tolerate temperatures below +10C.

Worm Prospector

Direct competitor to its famous Californian brother. High activity, the ability to efficiently process food, and rapid growth of biomass are characteristics of the Prospector species.

Tolerates temperatures from +9C to +28C well. From 1000 kg of substrate, the yield of vermicompost reaches 60%.

Give preference to industrial types of worms: KPC or Prospector. Productivity is higher than that of a regular earthworm.

What equipment will you need?

To organize a small home vermifarm you will need a minimum amount of equipment and inventory:

• scales;
• sifting sieve;
• wheelbarrow;
• bucket;
• shovel;
• pitchfork;
• instruments that measure soil acidity and temperature;
• room thermometer;
• racks.

Place the main emphasis on the correct arrangement of piles, pits or boxes for growing worms and preparing compost.

Which container and in what cases is it better to use

Where to place newly acquired individuals and where to plant new families? At home, several types of nurseries are used:

• Wooden box

Size: 1m x 2m x 0.5m. Boards – from 25 mm thick. Holes in the bottom will ensure the outflow of valuable liquid. To collect it, the box is installed with a slight slope. At the bottom you need a tray for collecting vermicha. The cover is made of plywood and knocked down boards with holes for ventilation.

• Old refrigerator

All “internals” are removed and the camera is installed with the door facing up. Ventilation holes are needed in the door and walls. Be sure to install the “house” at an angle on the bars.

• Cardboard box

An excellent option to get started. Dimensions of the cardboard nursery box: 400 mm x 300 mm. Eco-friendly material “breathes” well. Worms feed on pieces of cardboard. The box has become damp and thinner - bring a new one.

• Plastic container

There are many varieties: from a large flower pot to a high-quality large plastic container. A prerequisite: access to air, otherwise the worms will suffocate in too wet soil. Drill holes in the walls and lid. Place a basin or tray to collect the vermicelli.

• Special vermicomposter

The most convenient and expensive option for equipment for breeding worms. Most small entrepreneurs use simpler homemade options.

How does a vermicomposter work?

Which soil is better to use and why

The activity of individuals, their reproduction and the rate of processing of organic waste depend on the quality of the soil.

Follow the rules:

• Cover half the container with a layer of humus. You can add some shredded cardboard;
• moisten the mixture. Humidity should not exceed 70-80%;
• after 2-3 days, make several holes in the soil, populate the worms with part of the soil in which they lived before transplanting into the box;
• Gently level and moisten the soil. Cover the “house” with cardboard;
• wait a couple of days;
• After successful acclimatization, food can be added.

Always do a test placement in a small container. Place 50 to 100 individuals in the substrate. Check after a day to see if they are alive. This way you will know if the acidity of the soil suits your pets.

Optimal indicator:

• from 6.5 to 7.5 pH.

Several dead worms are a signal for a change in acidity.

The following will help improve your performance:

• sawdust or straw;
• plant tops.

To reduce acidity, the following are suitable:

• regular chalk;
• ground shells;
• limestone.

What and how to feed worms

All types of worms do not present special requirements to food. The value of worms is that they speed up the processing of waste that rots on your site in a compost heap for 1.5 - 2 years several times. Vermicompost for sale and grown worms can be collected every 4-6 weeks.

Basic feeding rules

Worms feed on plant debris that begins to rot and die.

Prohibited:

• meat waste;
• citrus. Increase acidity;
• undiluted kefir. Increases the acidity level of the soil, which leads to the appearance of mold;
• whole peels of vegetables or fruits, cores (freeze or pass the peelings through a meat grinder to destroy the cell walls);
• fresh manure. The rotting substance releases a large amount of heat. The temperature will rise to 70C, the worms will die.

• plant remains: cabbage leaves, potato peelings, banana peels, boiled vegetables;
• food waste;
• stale bread, pastries;
• tea leaves and coffee grounds;
• eggshell powder;
• the water you used to rinse the sour cream or kefir jar;
• grass, leaves, straw;
• fermented manure (cow, horse), chicken droppings. Important: Very old manure contains few nutrients.

A new portion of food is added after everything has been eaten. Excess food waste leads to increased acidity and fermentation in the soil.

What packaging options can be used to transfer worms to customers?

Products are packaged in:

• dense plastic bags measuring 150mm x 100mm with holes for worms to breathe. Store at a temperature approaching the lower mark. This will make the worms less mobile. A sufficient layer of soil is required. Convenient for fishing shops or individual fishermen;
• cardboard boxes. The weight of the box is within 8 kg. A sufficient layer of substrate is required. The mother colonies tolerate transportation well. The transfer method is suitable for large quantities of goods.

Please note: You must send the buyer a brood colony consisting of cocoons, fry and adults.

Worm implementation options

Use all channels to attract potential buyers. People should learn as much as possible about your products.

How to sell:

• Direct sales method. Go with the goods and offer them to “everything for fishing” stores, pet stores, familiar fishermen, neighbors in the country, farmers. Vermichai is readily accepted by amateur flower growers and avid summer residents.
• Advertising on the Internet: on free message boards such as Avito, on social networks, on a farming or fishing website. Perhaps you have your own website? Use this platform too.

Estimated business profitability

Worm breeding as a business - profitable investment funds. From 2 cubic meters of nursery in a year of successful operation you can get up to 15-20 thousand individuals for sale and about a ton of vermicompost. Just 2 rubles for 1 unit - and you already have 40 thousand rubles. Add the cost of vermicompost and vermicelli.

Taking into account the small initial investment, the break-even point will be passed quickly -

For those who decide to start growing worms for sale, it would be advisable to start with a small home farm in an old refrigerator or wooden box.

Having fully mastered the technology, studied the nuances of the business in practice, and “recruited” clients, you will be able to expand and organize a worm farm on an industrial scale. More substantial investments will be required. At this stage, you can prepare a business plan for breeding worms in order to optimize processes and attract additional funds for development.

A home mini-farm will allow you to accumulate capital sufficient to open a serious production.

Now you know that worm farming as a business is profitable for you and good for the environment. Study the technology, establish sales channels - and your business will prosper.

Discussion (20)

Hello, I'm about to start this business With minimal costs(One queen seed) and further development. I’ve been studying this issue for quite a long time, and your article is very good, but I can’t find information anywhere about how long manure (cattle) should sit before the urea comes out and how to speed up this process. I would be very grateful if you help or suggest the necessary literature on which I can prepare in more detail and correctly!!!

I didn't know that worms can hibernate in sub-zero temperatures. In our city, many people sell worms right along the highway when we go to visit another city. And not only in summer. Apparently, this is very profitable, and the hassle is minimal, especially in the summer. My husband buys it from me sometimes, mostly in the fall and winter. And in the summer he digs himself.

It's a good deed. First of all, restoration of ecology, restoration of the humus layer of the soil. Mother Earth will be healthy and grace to humanity. In a good situation and proper balance of forces, the sweat of labor will flow like golden rain.

Provided you have a personal subsidiary plot, it is enough to invest no more than 50 thousand rubles in a home business for breeding worms. The main costs will be spent on the purchase of breeding stock and the manufacture of boxes with substance for the winter maintenance of worms. Also, depending on the scale of production, it is necessary to have an appropriate feed supply. Otherwise, the business will not be profitable.

I'm on retirement. Tired of traveling on shifts! Maybe we should also start breeding worms? My son came up with an idea today. I don’t know what to do! Maybe try?

I breed worms in the basement of my house. I started with a small volume. First, a tray near a paid lake - not far from my village. Now there is already a circle of its customers. It's not a bad supplement to your pension. Many fishermen come to the house for bait. Especially in winter and early spring, demand is good.

By the way, I’ve also been doing this business for 5 years now, breeding worms for fishing, on my summer cottage. The business is great, no investment, it just naturally takes time. I also keep a tent at the market to sell worms, they sell very well! We already have our own clientele.

Yes, business is specific. It would be good if there is a steady demand for such products, and you should at least live in a private house. This is definitely not for everyone, although there will certainly be a demand for such exotica.

I couldn’t ignore this topic, because I remember a real example from the late 90s, when a friend of ours was able to get promoted in this business and rise from scratch. Now he is already a seasoned businessman. And then he was an ordinary labor teacher at a vocational school, then state employees were not paid salaries for several months, and even then, even if they waited for payment, it was only pennies. Which you can’t feed your family with. And he decided to start growing worms, right here in our vocational school, in the back room. The director was aware, but turned a blind eye to it, then everyone survived as best they could.
I remember how we all walked and looked at these worms, if I’m not mistaken, they were red Californian ones (I remember for sure that they were not the usual earthworms). The men made fun of our businessman, the women fumed and turned up their noses. But nevertheless, they borrowed everything from him from paycheck to paycheck, since the profit from this business was obvious, they sold it to pet stores, gardeners, fishermen, they didn’t break the price, and they took it from him willingly.
And he fussed with them like little children. And he constantly monitored the temperature, placed boxes with material at different levels, and observed ventilation regimes. There was once a tragedy that derailed his business - they told him that he needed to add eggshells to the ground for nutrition. Only they didn’t specify that it should be finely ground, just into flour. But he threw it into the ground, just mashed, the worms simply cut themselves when they moved in the soil. Now there is a lot of information on the Internet, and such mistakes can be avoided, but then our businessman collected information bit by bit from the same amateur businessmen in magazines and by calling them around the country.
What I’m getting at is that this business is really profitable, the sales market is huge and wide, if only there was a desire. But you shouldn’t classify it as one of the easiest and quickest to pay off; there are risks, as in any business.
But it’s obvious that it doesn’t require huge start-up capital and is strong enough even for a pensioner.

The idea of ​​making money by breeding worms would never even have crossed my mind. I read the entire article, everything turned out to be more than real. But I don’t think that there will be a permanent, stable income from this activity, so you can do this as a hobby, in your free time from work, or for retirees in order to earn extra money and not sit idle. By the way, I think it’s better to breed worms in the city, because to sell “finished” products it’s better to have regular customers who are unlikely to go to your village for a jar of worms. But still, there may well be income from this, and if you wish, you can carefully study all the points and nuances and try to make money on it

A very interesting type of business.
Low-cost, simple and cost-effective.
I think the pitfall of this business will be the sale of products in Russia.
I understand from the article that everything is happening in Latvia.
But what about our 35 degree frosts (I live in the northwest)?
Thank you very much for the valuable information.

It seemed to me that there was nothing left to do in our small town, all the ideas had already been sorted out, but what unexpected ways there are, and yet such a simple solution had to be thought of! We need to think carefully about this, of course, some pitfalls will emerge, but I think everything is quite solvable. The main thing is that no one here is doing this kind of work yet, so we need to hurry up. As they say, everything ingenious is simple!

I provide information about Californian worms from Vitaly Zabudko’s blog ( moyhytor.wordpress.com/2015/07/12/red-California-worm) :

California red worm

Even the farmers of Ancient Egypt saw earthworms as a guarantee of future harvests. Aristotle called them the intestines of the earth. And this is true: by passing earth and plant debris through their intestines, worms enrich the soil.

Only in the 50s of the 20th century the question arose about breeding worms specifically as producers of a very valuable, environmentally friendly fertilizer. The concept of “Vermiculture” arose - the culture of breeding worms. The red Californian worm was bred and used to create vermiculture.

What is California Worm?

Among all the species of earthworms existing in the world, only a few can be cultured under artificial conditions.

But the most universal in their characteristics and the most economically attractive are the worms belonging to the “Red Worms” species.

The red earthworm usually has the commercial name “California”, since it was in the state of California in the United States of America that its intensive cultivation began in the fifties of the last century.

Among various types, obtained as a result of various selections, the red worm obtained by the American Barrett as a result of selection of a common dung worm is widespread and successfully reproduced.

The California red worm is a new breed of earthworm Eisenia foetida. It was obtained at the University of California, as a result of the hybridization of various earthworm breeds, in 1959.

Its length is up to 10 cm, diameter is 3-5 mm, body weight is about 1 g, the appearance of a new generation in 21 days, the onset of puberty in 90-120 days. The offspring of two worms can reach 1.5 thousand individuals per year. After 40 days, the worm population doubles.

Worm biomass contains a whole complex of biologically valuable substances and is used to feed all types of animals and fish, both raw and processed.

The value of feed when adding worm biomass increases by 20-25%. The worm is also processed into protein meal containing 67% protein and 20% fat. Flour, in addition to other amino acids, also contains especially valuable ones - lysine 8%, methionine 3%.

Protein flour is most effectively used for the production of animal feed, as a food additive.

Features of the California worm:

DIFFERENT LIFESPAN AND FERTILITY OF THE FOREST RAINWORM AND THE RED CALIFORNIA WORM.

1. Title; 2. Life expectancy, years; 3. Frequency of copulations, days; 4. Number of newborns in the cocoon.

California red worm - (16) (7) (2-21);

Forest earthworm (8000 different species) - (4) (45) (1-4);

The habitat is a special substrate rich in organic compounds (manure, composts, organic waste and garbage), but not soil.

Long-lived - lives 16 years, laying 20 cocoons per season.

He eats twice as much per day as he weighs.

Doesn't crawl out of the boxes in which it is bred.

The mixtures in which the worms live must be moist. To retain moisture, cover the containers with a piece of polyethylene.

Crushed egg powder or lime should be added to food, since worms do not like acidic subtracts.

They can be bred both on an industrial scale and in an apartment, on a balcony and in a summer cottage.

Breeding California red worm.

The “Californian” is a wonderful “pet.” It can be placed in a box made of wood or plywood, even in a cardboard box, but lined with polyethylene on the inside, in an old glass aquarium, in a plastic box.

Closed joint stock company Fart recommends three plastic containers: the first with a solid bottom, the second and third with perforated bottoms. All containers are inserted into one another. Below - with a solid bottom.

The procedure for working with these containers is as follows::

Pour clean, dry sand into a container with a solid bottom. We place a holey container on it.

In this container we put a layer of “living” soil or a layer of fertile garden soil - a layer of 1 cm, on top we put a food substrate with a layer of 3 - 5 cm, then we dust the food layer with “new soil” or eggshell powder, on top of a layer of “living soil” or soil - 1 cm.

Worms are placed on the surface of the soil. The prepared substrate is moistened. A lump of substrate, if squeezed in your hand, does not crumble when you unclench your fist.

Cover the top of the containers with a piece of polyethylene. When the substrate is processed in a holey container, place a 3rd container on it, charged in the same way as the 2nd.

After 1.5 - 2 months, all the worms from the container will crawl into the 3rd container and begin to work in it. Biohumus has formed in the 2nd container, which can be used. Thus, by changing containers, we obtain fertile vermicompost.

The sand in the lower container becomes very wet after a while, and moisture accumulates in it as a result of the work of the worms. Sand with moisture is also a useful soil additive. Wet sand should be replaced with dry sand.

If it is not possible to purchase the containers described, you can get by with the above-mentioned containers. Sand must be placed at the bottom - it serves as drainage. Then a layer of soil 1 - 2 cm, a layer of food waste 3 - 5 cm, again a layer of soil 1 - 2 cm.

A little ground eggshell is added to food waste - “Californians” do not like an acidic environment.

It is more difficult to separate vermicompost from such containers than from containers. You can keep the worms on a starvation diet for a while, and then put food in a certain place, all the worms will crawl to that place.

It is convenient to use such containers for preserving the California worm in the winter, so that in the summer you can move it to the garden or vegetable garden.

What do you feed the California worm at home??

Peels from raw vegetables, especially potatoes, must be thoroughly crushed (turned through a meat grinder), otherwise they will not be processed.

Perfectly recyclable:
banana skins;
citrus peel;
apple cores;
drunken tea and coffee grounds;
moldy bread, bread crusts and rolls;
leftover cereals, pieces of cheese;
rotten tomatoes, apples and other plant waste.

You can feed the worms grass and leaves. It is not recommended to feed worms with meat waste.

How to feed regularly?

When you have containers, feeding intervals are 1.5 - 2 months, i.e. we feed when we charge the container. In single containers we give a little at a time every 2-3 days, trying to feed so that the unprocessed subtract does not accumulate.

Life of a worm in the wild.

In May, the “Californian” can be moved outside to a compost heap made from household garbage, rotted manure, and weeds. Recommended for a standard “bed”, on a bed measuring 2 x 1 m from 30 to 100 thousand worms.

The worms are placed on a heap prepared in advance, made up of well-composted manure mixed with sawdust, straw, and weeds can be used to feed. Feed is added every 10 days.

Depending on the weather, water the compost 2-3 times a week. By the end of the season we get wonderful vermicompost.

Breeding on a livestock farm

What is the best way to produce vermicompost??

The substrate should consist of approximately 2/3 manure, 1/3 peat plus the addition of green manure or straw. In this case, the yield of vermicompost will be the largest.

Wintering

For the winter, it is imperative to cover the “wormhouse” with a half-meter layer of straw, since, unlike its Russian relatives, the Californian does not go deep into the winter and can freeze out if measures are not taken.

Another serious danger to worms are mice and moles, which readily eat worms. It makes sense to keep a safety stock at home or in a warm room in winter.

Substrate processing cycle

The cycle of substrate processing in trays is usually about 5 months, with the number of worms increasing five to ten times, depending on the care taken to maintain optimal conditions. If adult worms are separated every 2 months, the reproduction of vermiculture can be further accelerated.

Advantages and disadvantages

The California red worm reaches sexual maturity at three months of age, when it can be considered fully mature.

Two earthworms per year can produce an average of 1,500 young worms under fairly normal temperate climate conditions. Thus, one pair produces 3,000 young worms annually over five generations.

This pair, grown in an optimal environment of constant average temperature, constant and controlled humidity, adequate food and sufficient water, can produce 7 to 10 young worms per capsule and up to 20 to 21 young worms when reared in a greenhouse.

The Californian earthworm differs from the ordinary earthworm by its higher vital activity and the ability to process food faster and more completely. As a result of processing one ton of substrate, about 600 kg of vermicompost is obtained, and the increase in worm biomass is 100 kg.

As noted above, the only drawback of the California worm is that it is too heat-loving.

Its instinct of self-preservation is weakened at subzero temperatures, and therefore, when its habitat cools, the California worm does not go deep into the ground to the freezing depth, but gathers in one place in large quantities and freezes safely.

So, if you are going to breed this type of worm, you should take care of a good worm cage with a positive temperature in winter, or you will have to insulate the clamps well when growing them outside.

Here is some essential useful information:

note

It should be borne in mind that it is very difficult for adult worms to get accustomed to new food. This is strongly related to their biological feature- worms are programmed to consume food immediately after birth, so they can no longer get used to another.

Therefore, when buying technological worms, you need to take this risk into account. New substrates should be populated only with cocoons of worms; then, after hatching, the worms will be configured to process only this type of food.

Helpful advice

Overwintering California worms can be done in the following way - dig a hole with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 meters and a depth of about 20 cm, in late autumn load the worms into it and cover it with a 50 cm layer of fallen leaves. The control batch should be stored in the cellar in a box with a capacity of 2-3 buckets .

I don’t believe that in central Russia Californian worms will survive under a layer of leaves 50 cm thick - you can check if you don’t mind the worms.

I think it is worth trying to grow Californian worms to get a personal feel for them, but you should mainly focus on growing native earthworms, Prospector worms and Dendroben worms.

I invite everyone to speak out in